‘The church is small and stoic with rubble-stone whitewashed walls, the squat bell tower not unreminiscent of a Mediterranean chapel. Turfy ground between the church and its surrounding enclosure slopes to the top of the drystone walls, perhaps to let the sheep out but not in, though they tend to use the open gate. You can hear them munch the grass encroaching over the paving slabs. They rub against the graves, some of which are neat and spruce, while others are splintered into shards.’

Read more in the December 2019 issue of BBC Countryfile Magazine